Seasoned reporting: charting changing tastes in the field of food journalism

Food journalism encompasses a broad spectrum of topics, ranging from questions related to sustainability and ethical consumption habits to labour rights and identity politics.

As this domain continues to grow, journalists need to consider these broader dimensions, while also adhering – as we always should - to strict ethical standards and remaining vigilant against biases and conflicts of interest.

This article delves into five key themes and challenges facing modern food journalism, drawing insights from some of my recent teaching and research on this subject.

1. The multifaceted nature of food journalism

Food journalism today is not confined to the culinary world; it extends into various aspects of life, reflecting the intricate relationship between food and society.

Professor Kayla Stewart of New York University, notes in her teaching that "Food is the essence of humanity, an integral part of growth and livelihood. It is also deeply entrenched in the human experience." Stewart underscores the importance of capturing stories that explore the intersection of food, culture, politics, and identity.

Food journalism should serve as a bridge between the culinary arts and the broader societal context, offering insights into the richness of food culture and its impact on our daily lives.

2. The digital era and the democratisation of food media

As with other beats, the advent of digital media has revolutionised the way food journalism is consumed and produced.

As noted by Australian-based scholars Tania Lewis and Michelle Phillipov, the proliferation of online food content has created a space where "serious amateurs" and "ordinary experts" share their culinary insights alongside professional journalists.

This democratisation of food media has expanded the audience and allowed for a more diverse range of voices and perspectives.

However, it has also led to challenges in maintaining journalistic integrity and credibility, as the lines between professional journalism and user-generated content become increasingly blurred.

It is shifting user preferences too, with my students often indicating a preference to consume food-related content from influencers and independent creators on platforms like TikTok and Instagram, instead of more traditional media and platforms.

3. Ethical considerations in food journalism

As food media gains prominence, journalists must navigate the ethical complexities inherent in the field.

Hanna Raskin, editor and publisher of The Food Section, a newsletter covering food and drink in the American South, emphasises the need for transparency and accountability, particularly when dealing with potential conflicts of interest. (Her site features its own Ethics Code very prominently.) 

For instance, Raskin cautions that journalists must be wary of the influence of restaurant PR and the temptation of accepting freebies or special treatment, which can undermine the credibility of their reporting.

The core principles outlined by the now-defunct Association of Food Journalists (AFJ) should continue to serve as the foundational ethical guidelines for food journalists. These include avoiding conflicts of interest, respecting diversity, and maintaining transparency in all aspects of their work.

4. The role of diversity and inclusion

Diversity and inclusion are critical components of all journalism, including ethical food reporting. Journalists must strive to present a wide range of perspectives and avoid perpetuating stereotypes or biases.

This commitment to diversity not only enriches the storytelling but also ensures that all voices are represented in the coverage of food-related topics. It is an area where, like many others, we have historically fallen short as an industry.

The call for a more inclusive food media landscape has been echoed by many in the industry, including journalists like Soleil Ho and Dan Q. Dao, who James Salanga and Gabe Schneider at The Objective note, have “highlighted that food media’s systemic whiteness isn’t just about its staff, but about the recipes and chefs it celebrates.”

We can – and must – do better.

5. Navigating criticisms and challenges

Food journalism is not without its criticisms. One common critique is that the field often glorifies certain aspects of food culture while ignoring others, such as labour issues or environmental concerns.

Raskin points out that uncritical food writing can reinforce existing power structures and fail to address the needs of consumers and workers. Therefore, food journalists need to engage in critical and investigative reporting, shedding light on the less glamorous but equally important aspects of the food industry.

As The New York Times’ Brett Anderson has put it, "food journalism isn’t just for readers privileged enough to obsess over where to spend their money dining out."

Food journalism he contended, reflecting on coverage during the covid crisis, but equally applicable in the here and now, needs to be "a balance of service journalism and stories that make people feel good (we still need those), and hard news reporting about a business that is undergoing historic change and a labour force that has gone unnoticed for too long."

The future of food journalism

The future of food journalism lies in its ability to adapt and address the evolving concerns of its audience. As the field continues to branch out, it will increasingly tackle "bigger themes, the bigger picture—everything that food is attached with will be on the plate," observes Finnish journalist Pauliina Siniauer. This broader scope will increasingly encompass issues such as sustainability, social justice, and cultural identity, reflecting the growing awareness of the interconnectedness of food and society.

Food journalism has already come a long way, evolving into a complex and dynamic field that intersects with various aspects of life. As this evolution continues, journalists must uphold ethical standards, embrace diversity, and engage in critical reporting that touches on everything from labour issues to business and matters of policy.

By doing this food journalists can help contribute to a more informed and inclusive conversation about food and its role in our world. We need these types of conversations and a richer, deeper style of food journalism.

Damian Radcliffe is the Carolyn S. Chambers Professor of Journalism at the University of Oregon and a three-time Knight News Innovation Fellow at the Tow Center for Digital Journalism at Columbia University. He recently led a month-long study abroad program for US students exploring food journalism in France.

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